Bar saftey issue

General Discussions
felix
Posts: 544
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:24 pm

Tue Nov 03, 2015 4:24 am

Please email felix@switchkites.com
I will pass it on . We have had some issues with spam filters.
Thank you.
djbear33k
Posts: 58
Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2015 11:59 am

Wed Nov 04, 2015 8:20 am

My Swivel has never worked on either of the bars that I own I always have to untwist from the chicken loop end to remove any twists. I love switch kites think they are amazing but the bar is far from perfect like the kites. I would love to see that swivel removed and have something similar to Ozone, which is simple swivel solution. I was hoping that the controller 3 was going to see that part redeveloped.
Andre
Posts: 77
Joined: Tue May 26, 2015 9:27 am

Thu Nov 05, 2015 5:19 pm

A working swivel is the wainman with the closed ceramic bearing (from carrot bar), i used him in my controller v2 and v3. I tryed also Naish , Mutiny and Slingshot Swivels, they doesn´t work (and they are very expensive compared to the wainman). The problem of the switch swivel is the open construction so sand and salt get in and blocks it. Another problem is the too small hole for the safety line, the splice of the frontline needs a higher force to run through it. Drill the hole for the frontline up to 3,5mm and it works much better. But if you want a good turning swivel i think you must change it.
taiguy
Posts: 40
Joined: Sat Nov 16, 2013 6:19 am

Fri Nov 06, 2015 5:28 pm

Faxie wrote:It's not really the swivel that's the problem, but the splices on the frontlines that got a tiny bit bigger in diameter.

Never really had swivel issues with my first set of lines, but the issues started with an new set where the front line would get a bit more stuck in the hole, limiting the swivel function and needing more power for safety to work.

One other thing: See to it that the main depower line is not twisted too much. Safetyline will get stuck that way.
Yep. I replaced my lines recently and the spliced section on the center lines is noticeably thicker than the stock lines. There was considerable friction/effort with getting it pulled through.
topmick
Posts: 165
Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2015 10:04 am
Location: Australia

Fri Nov 06, 2015 9:49 pm

Helped a mate replace his lines on a controller3, had to use quite a bit of force to pull the new lines through the swivel. I can see you getting lots of wear on your safety line - if you were to deploy it often.

I'd like to see Switch develop something like Ozone/North/Airush have & get rid of the swivel above the bar altogether.
Last edited by topmick on Tue Nov 10, 2015 7:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
snalberski
Posts: 64
Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2013 12:10 am

Sat Nov 07, 2015 3:08 pm

Andre wrote:A working swivel is the wainman with the closed ceramic bearing (from carrot bar), i used him in my controller v2 and v3. I tryed also Naish , Mutiny and Slingshot Swivels, they doesn´t work (and they are very expensive compared to the wainman). The problem of the switch swivel is the open construction so sand and salt get in and blocks it. Another problem is the too small hole for the safety line, the splice of the frontline needs a higher force to run through it. Drill the hole for the frontline up to 3,5mm and it works much better. But if you want a good turning swivel i think you must change it.
I changed my swivel to a Wainman. It does work well but only if it is kept really clean and free of salt and sand. Mine sticks very easily if it isnt flushed after each session and checked before every session. It also needs assistance to make the saftey line slide through it when flagging.
MAC
Posts: 102
Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2011 3:24 pm
Location: Long Beach Island NJ

Sat Nov 07, 2015 3:55 pm

Where did you get the Wainman swivel? I'm planning on getting the controller 3 but this swivel flag line issue has got me concerned

MAC
huili88
Posts: 148
Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2012 1:22 am

Sun Nov 08, 2015 8:55 am

I agree with topmick, with the switch below the bar swivel ( one of the best and most simple )there is really little need for a second above the bar considering the current situation with the swivel. You can easily convert your switch bar to one similar to (naish/north/best) all you need to know is how to eyes splice dyneema. You can easily find videos on line for eye splicing. I will post how to in a couple days when I get a spare moment.

Here is a link to earlier post with a simple video I will do a better one in a couple of days.
http://switchkites.com/headquarters/for ... f=5&t=2395

Here is a quick primer until I can upload how to, the theory is the same and finished bar will look similar.
http://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Kite ... r-Depower/
icedub
Posts: 64
Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2014 9:34 pm

Mon Nov 09, 2015 8:19 pm

I've noticed that my Controller 2 single line safety has been getting harder and harder to pull through the swivel. Sometimes when the wind dies and the kite crashes into the water (as it is known to do here on the lake), I'll punch out and wrap up my lines. I've been noticing that when the kite isn't super powered the line gets stuck as it goes through the swivel and I have to really yank the leash to get the kite to properly depower. Probably due to line wear from punching out a lot (I learned to kite on this bar). I'd love to mitigate this situation before it becomes a real situation!
YakAttack
Posts: 68
Joined: Sun Oct 25, 2015 7:09 pm

Tue Nov 10, 2015 12:59 am

In ten years of riding I have yet to find a swivel that works. Just learn to spin both ways or simply twist below the bar to untwist your lines. Easy. :)
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